date published:
March 9, 2009
Celebrating
the Hub’s Celtic heritage
by Josh B. WardropShort of a
trip to Dublin this March, Boston is one of
the best cities in the world for embracing
Irish culture, food and drink. Whether your
tastes run toward exploring Boston’s ample
Irish history, taking in an evening of
rollicking and raucous Irish music or simply
sampling the brews at a festive pub, here
are Panorama’s suggestions for
indulging in a bit of Celtic pride here in
the Hub.
The Green Mile
In Boston, everyone who’s ever known
a Sullivan, O’Neill or Fitzpatrick claims to
be Irish when March rolls around. However,
precious few know their stuff when it comes
to our city’s proud Irish-American heritage.
Anyone looking to foster a better
understanding of what it means to be Boston
Irish should take a stroll along the
Irish Heritage Trail, a three-mile
self-guided walking tour through downtown
Boston, the North End, Beacon Hill and Back
Bay that showcases the Hub’s Hibernian
history.

Looking to celebrate your Celtic
heritage this month? Here’s some key
events that will have Irish (and
non-Irish) eyes smiling.
FOOD:
Hoping to prove once and for all
that Irish cuisine isn’t limited to
corned beef and cabbage, acclaimed
Boston chefs Rachel Klein and
Barbara Lynch (pictured right) join
forces with Galway standout Chef
Gerard Reidy for a four-course
Gaelic Gourmet Celebration at
Aura Restaurant in the Seaport Hotel
on March 14. Tickets are $125–500;
call 617-385-5662 for information.
FUN:
Since 1901, the
traditionally Irish neighborhood of
South Boston has been the epicenter
of St. Patrick’s Day celebration in
Boston, most notably demonstrated by
the famous South Boston St.
Patrick’s Day Parade (pictured
middle right). Each year, more than
600,000 Bostonians and visitors pack
the streets of “Southie” to
experience this procession featuring
colorful floats and marching and
bagpipe bands from America and the
Emerald Isle. The 108th annual
parade kicks off at 1 p.m. on March
15 from the Broadway MBTA station on
the Red Line. Refer to
special events listing.
(photo courtesy of Greater Boston
Convention & Visitors Bureau)
Music:
Lovers of Celtic
music of all kinds are spoiled for
choice this month, as Boston hosts
shows by big names like The
Chieftains (March 13 at
Symphony Hall, pictured right),
Celtic Woman (March 20–22
at the Wang Theatre) and the annual
St. Patrick’s Day Celtic Sojourn
with Brian O’Donovan (March 14
at Berklee Performance Center). And
Boston’s House of Blues might as
well call itself the “House of
Greens,” as it welcomes Flogging
Molly (March 10), a
six-night residency by Boston’s own
Dropkick Murphys (March
12–17) and The Pogues (March
20 & 21). Refer to
music listings. (photo by Barry
McCall) |
The trail and its stops illustrate more
than 300 years of key events, showcasing the
politicians, artists and war heroes who
personify the rebellious and triumphant
nature of the Boston Irish. View a garden
dedicated to the city’s most famous
Irish-American matriarch, Rose Fitzgerald
Kennedy; a flag waved by the entirely Irish
9th Regiment of Infantry during the Civil
War; and a memorial remembering the tragic
Great Famine that claimed 1 million lives
and forced 2 million others to flee Ireland.
Maps of the Trail are available at the
Greater Boston Convention & Visitors
Bureau’s Boston Common Visitor Center or the
Prudential Center Visitor Information
Center. Refer to
sightseeing listing.
Irish History on Exhibit
Many legendary Irish-Americans
have come of age in Boston’s neighborhoods,
but none more famous than President John F.
Kennedy. JFK, the nation’s first
Irish-Catholic president, exhibited enormous
pride in his Irish heritage. During the
politically and socially tumultuous 1960s,
JFK toasted his homeland, stating, “It is
that quality of the Irish—that remarkable
combination of hope, confidence and
imagination—that is needed more than ever
today.” The John F. Kennedy Presidential
Library and Museum (refer to
museum listing) celebrates JFK’s Celtic
heritage and pride in its many exhibits,
including one that traces the history of the
Kennedy clan all the way back to the
Fitzgeralds’ and the Kennedys’ respective
emigration to the U.S. from Ireland.
Boston College has long been a popular
center of higher education for the Boston
Irish, and the school’s John J. Burns
Library offers one of the finest
assemblages of Irish cultural artifacts in
the city. This non-circulating reference
library houses thousands of pieces,
including newspapers, periodicals, land
deeds and rare books and manuscripts by
prominent Irish names like Brendan Behan,
Samuel Beckett and William Butler Yeats; an
extensive Irish music collection; and a
digital database that includes a
photographic retrospective of longtime
Speaker of the House Thomas P. “Tip”
O’Neill.
The Boston Irish
A rundown
of some of the most famous
Irish-Americans to come out of the
Boston area:
-
Mark
and Donnie Wahlberg:
Siblings from Dorchester
(pictured right) who found fame
in both music (Marky Mark and
the Funky Bunch, New Kids on the
Block, respectively) and acting.
-
Conan O’Brien:
Comedian
and soon-to-be new host of “The
Tonight Show.”
-
Denis Leary:
Emerson College grad; actor/
comedian currently starring in
“Rescue Me.”
-
John F. Kennedy:
35th U.S. President; brothers
Robert and Ted Kennedy also made
their marks in American
politics.
-
John Singleton Copley:
Considered
to be America’s first great
portraitist, who immortalized
such subjects as George
Washington, Sam Adams and Paul
Revere; Boston’s Copley Square
was named for him.
-
Nancy Kerrigan:
Olympic
ice skater who was clubbed in
the knee by an attacker a month
before the 1994 Winter Olympics;
she went on to win the silver
medal anyway.
-
Maura Tierney:
Actress and star of television’s
“NewsRadio” and “ER”; father
served as a Boston City
Councilor for 15 years.
-
Connie Mack:
Born Cornelius McGillicuddy in
Brookfield, Mass.; holds record
for most wins and games managed
by a baseball manager, and won
five World Series.
-
Dennis Lehane:
Acclaimed novelist who wrote
Mystic River and Gone Baby Gone.
-
Ben Affleck:
Actor/screenwriter/director; won
an Oscar for Good Will Hunting
and directed Gone Baby Gone.
|
Pubs of the Hub
If you’re already up on the
history and culture of the Boston Irish, you
may choose to celebrate St. Patrick’s Day
(or, indeed, any other day) by settling into
an authentic Irish pub for a pint of
Guinness, Murphy’s or Magner’s and enjoying
a hearty shepherd’s pie or gloriously
unhealthy Irish breakfast. However, choosing
between the dozens and dozens of Celtic
watering holes to be found throughout Boston
is a task of Sisyphean proportions. So,
consider these suggestions as a cheatsheet
for enjoying the best pub life the Hub has
to offer.
Southie
The working-class neighborhood of South
Boston has been home to Irish immigrants and
their fiercely proud descendants for what
seems like forever, and as one would
imagine, the neighborhood is chockfull of
genuine Irish bars (in other words, ask for
green beer here at your peril). Visit the
L Street Tavern (195 L St.,
617-268-4335), immortalized in the film Good
Will Hunting, or if you like your experience
a bit more gentrified, Amrhein’s (80
West Broadway, 617-268-6189) and the popular
Boston Beer Garden (732 East
Broadway, 617-269-0990) represent Southie’s
move toward upscale pubbery.
Jamaica Plain
If negotiating the parade
seems like too much effort, another strong
Irish neighborhood is Jamaica Plain, located
just south of the Fenway. Popular local
establishments include Doyle’s Café
(3484 Washington St., 617-524-2345), a
favorite of generations of Irish
politicians; the Brendan Behan Pub
(378 Centre St., 617-522-5386); and
James’s Gate (5 McBride St.,
617-983-2000), a pub named for the town in
Ireland where Guinness originated.
A Pint for all
Seasons Diversity is
really the key to keeping so many Irish pubs
in one metropolitan area surviving and
thriving. For the artistically inclined,
there’s The Druid (1357 Cambridge
St., Cambridge, 617-497-0965), which is
adorned with original Celtic oil paintings,
wooden and metal sculptures and stained
glass windows. The Green Dragon (11
Marshall St., 617-367-0055)—one of Boston’s
oldest pubs, hailed as “The Headquarters of
the American Revolution” because of its
popularity with Paul Revere and the Sons of
Liberty—appeals to history buffs. College
students and young professionals looking to
set off sparks with the opposite sex flock
to The Purple Shamrock (1 Union St.,
617-227-2060), Kitty O’Shea’s (refer
to
restaurant listing) or The Black Rose
(160 State St., 617-742-2286) near Faneuil
Hall. Sports fans have taken McGreevy’s
(911 Boylston St., 617-262-0911) to their
bosom—this re-interpretation of an 1894
watering hole popular with original Red Sox
fans “The Royal Rooters” at the turn of the
century is co-owned by Dropkick Murphys
founder Ken Casey. For those who like a bit
of nosh with their Guinness, The Kinsale
and Elephant & Castle (refer to
restaurant
listings) boast delicious full menus,
while Kennedy’s Midtown (44 Province
Place, 617-426-3333) takes the Irish pub
concept a bit more “upscale steakhouse,”
with a more mature focus on high-end wines
and liquors and its secluded location in
Downtown Crossing. And if you’re the brave,
high-stepping sort, get a true Irish
experience at The Burren (247 Elm
St., Somerville, 617-776-6896), where they
offer Irish set dancing classes every Monday
night at 8 p.m.

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