date published:
July 4, 2005

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Ask most
people what they know about Boston’s ethnic cultures and
they’re likely to answer with something about green beer and
shamrocks, or a laundry list of the best places in the North
End to get cannoli and really good spaghetti Bolognese. But
there are other ethnicities that have a significant presence
in Boston—if you only know where to look. As Francophiles the
world over prepare to celebrate major French festivities such
as Bastille Day and the Tour de France, Panorama decided to
explore French culture in Boston and find out how, if only
for a little while, visitors can pretend the Charles is the
Seine. |
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THE
CENTER OF IT ALL
Anyone seeking French culture in Boston would be advised to start
the search at the French Library and Cultural Center (53
Marlborough St., 617-912-0400). If someone within the city limits
is baking a baguette or paying musical tribute to Edith Piaf,
it’s the French Library’s raison d’etre to know about it and
share the info with the community.
The library itself is a
tremendous resource for lovers of all things French. Incorporated
in 1945, and lovingly nurtured by expatriate General Georges
Doriot and his American wife Edna throughout the 1970s and 1980s,
the library houses 25,000 books—the largest private collection of
French literature in the U.S. It also offers French language
classes for adults and children, cooking seminars, lectures by
visiting French dignitaries, and, for some, a haven to connect or
reconnect with French heritage.
For one day a year, the library
throws one heck of a fete in celebration of Bastille Day, with
the streets surrounding the building closed off for an
old-fashioned block party with food and entertainment. This
month’s celebration on July 15 is the first in two years for the
French Library at its home base, which executive director Elaine
Uzan Leary hopes is a sign that the anti-French sentiment that
proliferated after France failed to back the U.S. military action
in Iraq has dissipated. “It had an impact,” she confesses. “The
people who come here regularly kept coming, but we didn’t have
[the street party] because we could not get the corporate
support.”

LOUIS
SLEPT HERE
Some of Boston’s most famous names and landmarks are intimately
connected with France. Revolutionary War hero Paul Revere
originally had the family name Revoire, like his Huguenot
descendants. And Faneuil Hall—one of Boston’s most significant
historical buildings—is named for French descendant Peter Faneuil,
who built it and donated it to the city in 1742.
At King’s Chapel, a column near
the entrance was erected in 1917 as a memorial to Cavalier Saint-Sauveur,
a French lieutenant who died while supporting the U.S. in the
American Revolution. And Louis-Philippe d’Orleans, while in exile
during the French Revolution in 1796, lived for several months
above the Union Oyster House before claiming the French throne in
1830.
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VIVE LA REVOLUTION!
Celebrate French independence with food, music and more
around town by
Marketa Hulpachova
It was July 14, 1789, when an
outraged mob stormed the “impenetrable” walls of the
Bastille, an infamous Parisian prison, sparking the French
Revolution. Nowadays, the French celebrate Bastille Day much
as
we do Independence Day, with a profusion of parades,
parties and fireworks On July 15, you can partake in the
revelry at the French Library and Cultural Center’s Bastille
Day Street Party. Held outdoors on the rues of the Back Bay,
between Berkley and Clarendon streets, this summer festival
evokes the rebellious spirit of the 18th century Parisian
citizenry (without the angry mob, that is). You’ll have a
chance to savor a la carte eats from local bistros, drink
wine, sing the “Marseillaise” and rumba to the
Creole beats
of Emeline Michel (pictured left), Papa Wemba (pictured
below) and Daby Toure. Too revolutionary? You can also raise
a glass to liberté, egalité, fraternité in the quieter
ambience of Sandrine’s (8 Holyoke St., Cambridge,
617-497-5300) on July 16 & 17, (Saturday from 4–10 p.m.;
Sunday from 2–10 p.m), where you can enjoy an outdoor menu
and listen to a live French band. |
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SHOW ME
THE MONET
Though thousands of miles away from Montmartre, Boston-area
galleries and museums abound in works by prominent French
artists. Explore the treasures of the Museum of Fine Arts, where
you can view pieces by Degas, Manet, Monet and Renoir, to name a
few. Or drop by the Fogg Art Museum to visit the Art in France
exhibit, which showcases works by Matisse, Cezanne, and Leger, as
well as the not-to-be missed portrait of Madame de Pompadour
painted by Bouchard during the 18th century. Galerie d’Orsay (33
Newbury St., 617-266-8001) may be considerably smaller than its
Paris inspiration, but it features masterworks by Pissarro and
Chagall. If your idea of art has an engine and four wheels, ogle
French relics at the Larz Anderson Auto Museum’s L’Automobile
exhibit. Refer to listings in Museums.
PARLEZ
VOUS…SHOPPING?
The Back Bay, Boston’s shopping mecca, looks nothing like the
illustrious Champs-Elysees, but don’t be surprised to find many
of the same trendy French boutiques. Garb yourself in luxury at
Agnes B (172 Newbury St.), Chanel (5 Newbury St.), Hermes (338
Boylston St.) or Dior (100 Huntington Ave.). Then, accessorize at
Louis Vuitton (100 Huntington Ave. and Copley Place), Cartier (40
Newbury St.) and Longchamp (139 Newbury St.). Or indulge your
olfactory senses with the collection of perfumes and scented
candles at Diptyque (123 Newbury St.).
FOR
FANS OF SUBTITLES
The French take pride in their films for a good reason—after
Hollywood and India’s “Bollywood,” no country’s movies reach as
wide an audience and garner as much international attention from
critics. In Boston, independent movie houses like Kendall Square
Cinema (One Kendall Square, Cambridge), Harvard Film Archive, the
Brattle Theatre and the Coolidge Corner Theatre frequently show
new and classic French flicks. And from July 7–24 the Museum of
Fine Arts hosts its 10th annual French Film Festival, which
includes a celebration of the 60th anniversary of the film Les
Enfants du Paradis (Children of Paradise).
WATCHING THE WHEELS
Boston is known as a great sports town, and while a bike race
across the pond isn’t likely to rival the Red Sox for the
region’s affections, French restaurant Brasserie Jo (refer to
listing, page 65) is taking advantage of interest in all things
Lance Armstrong by showing the Tour de France on television. From
July 2–24, the restaurant also offers daily special spotlighting
dishes from the provinces through which the race passes. Just a
few miles south, the Jeanie Johnston Pub (144 South St., Jamaica
Plain, 617-983-9432) also offers the race on the tube daily.

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