date published:
June 18, 2007

Every year, tourists flood the small coastal
town of Provincetown in search of a singular
New England seaside experience, and they’re
never disappointed. The former fishing
village has long been famous as an arts
colony—packed with wonderful galleries,
shopping and restaurants—as well as for
being home to one of the nation’s most
thriving gay communities. Funkier than the
rest of Cape Cod, yet quaint enough to bring
grandma for a trip to the seashore, “P-Town”
offers visitors the best of all possible
worlds. Here’s Panorama’s suggestions
for crafting your own perfect daytrip to
this coastal jewel.
When planning your trip to Provincetown,
first things first: you’ve heard that
getting there is half the fun, right? Well,
think how much fun it will be when you don’t
have to wind your way through summer Cape
Cod traffic behind the wheel of your car,
all the while burning through $3.25 a
gallon. Visitors to Provincetown can arrive
via the skies (Cape Air flies from Boston to
P-Town, just 35 minutes each way, a dozen
times a day) or on the rails via Amtrak
service. But by far the most appropriate way
to journey to this traditional fishing
community is over the sea itself. Two ferry
services—Bay State Cruise
Company and Boston
Harbor Cruises—offer multiple daily
departures to Provincetown, with each
company boasting special “fast ferries” that
can get visitors from the Boston mainland to
P-Town in just 90 minutes. Refer to
excursion listings.
To
get your day in Provincetown started off on
the right foot, you’ll want to grab
something savory and/or sweet from one of
Commercial Street’s delicious breakfast
options. At Relish (93
Commercial St., 508-487-0488), you can
choose from a selection of phenomenal baked
goods, like their famous Marth’s Lemon
Blueberry Coffee Cake, or enjoy an egg
sandwich with a creative twist—like The
Beach, which unites two eggs, black bean
mash, tomato and Swiss cheese. Or, you can
hit the much-beloved
Provincetown Portuguese Bakery (299
Commercial St., 508-487-1803) to indulge in
traditional Portuguese pastries like the
sweet fried dough malassadas or the trutas,
filled with sweet potato(!).
Now, there’s pretty much no point in
coming to a seaside community if you’re not
planning on hitting the beach—it’s like
going to a four-star steakhouse and ordering
the chicken. So, make a beeline for either
of Provincetown’s two National Seashore
beaches—Herring Cove Beach
and Race Point—to gaze
out at the Atlantic, or even dive in and
enjoy a bracing morning swim, before they
get too crowded. A word to the wise: the
waters at Race Point can be a tad rougher
than Herring Cove, but it’s also not unheard
of to be able to spot whales from the beach
en route to their “home” in Stellwagen Bank.
(There are also a plethora of other beaches
to be found on the other side of P-Town,
also swimmable but not as picturesque, that
face the bay rather than the ocean.)
The tip of the Cape is equally known for
its seemingly endless rolling sand dunes,
and racing across them in a dune buggy is
the only way to really experience their
beauty. Art’s Dune Tours
(4 Standish St., 800-894-1951)—a family
business started by Art Costa, P-Town’s
“King of the Dunes,” and now run by his son,
Rob—has been taking visitors on one-hour
narrated tours of the dunes since 1946,
giving participants great views of the
seashore, as well as the dune shacks that
have housed some of P-Town’s most famous
residents. “You get out there in a Suburban,
and they take you all across the dunes, and
you’ll see shacks that were lived in by
people like Eugene O’Neill and Tennessee
Williams when they came out to write in
solitude,” says Provincetown Tourism
Director Bill Schneider. “It’s really
something else.”
All that tearing around in the fresh air
is bound to work up a healthy appetite, and
so it’s an excellent time to stop for lunch.
Most would agree that a trip to Provincetown
simply isn’t complete without a seaside meal
at the world-famous Lobster Pot (321
Commercial St., 508-487-0842). Whether it’s
lobsters, fried seafood, clam chowder or any
other tasty delights from the deep, the Pot
has been satisfying diners for years, and a
visit is considered a P-Town dining
tradition. For an eclectic alternative, look
no further than Napi’s
(7 Freeman St., 800-571-6274), a former auto
garage-turned-salvaged materials sculpture
gallery, popular for both its creative
decorating and cuisine, including seafood,
vegetarian dishes and international flavors.
What’s a day trip, you might ask, without
a bit of souvenir shopping? Especially when
you consider that the souvenirs you can
bring back from P-Town go well beyond the
average postcards and lobster shaped
baseball caps to be found in your average
Massachusetts tourist trap. Shopping in
Provincetown is as eclectic an experience as
everything else here, with options ranging
from sublime antique shops like vintage
jeweler Small Pleasures
(359 Commercial St., 508-487-3712), to
numerous art galleries like the
Albert Merola Gallery
(424 Commercial St., 508-487-4424), the
Berta Walker Gallery
(208 Bradford St., 508-487-6411) or the
Packard Gallery (418
Commercial St., 508-487-4690)—just to name a
few—that display and sell authentic pieces
by the big art names from P-Town’s past and
present.
And to get your hands on the freshest,
most authentic home-grown goods, the town
hosts a Saturday Farmers’
Market beginning June 30,
located across from Town Hall on Ryder
Street, where local farmers sell flowers,
baked goods and fruits and vegetables of all
sorts—giving you nutritious snacks to help
sustain yourself throughout your full day of
activity.
Just because you don’t have your car with
you, don’t think that’s an obstacle to
taking in everything P-Town has to offer.
Plenty of visitors opt for the 45-minute
Provincetown Trolley Tour,
which departs hourly from Town Hall, and
explores a three-mile stretch of shopping
and cultural attractions. In fact, according
to Schneider, you’re in the majority if you
leave the wheels at home. “During the
summer, bicycles are actually our primary
mode of transport,” he says. Whether you
brought a two-wheeler with you or not, your
next stop should be Gale
Force Bikes (144 Bradford St.,
508-487-4849), where you can rent bicycles
and helmets, pick up maps of the area, and
get all the equipment and information you
need to take your own personal bike tour of
Provincetown.

Once you have your bike, there’s plenty
of sights to see in P-Town. There’s the
Pilgrim Monument and
Provincetown Museum (1 High Pole Rd.,
508-487-1310), which Schneider proudly
proclaims is “the tallest all-granite
structure in the United States.” (252 feet,
incidentally, for those of you who fancy a
climb.) This year marks the 100th
anniversary of the laying of the cornerstone
for the monument.
Or, art lovers can explore the
Provincetown Art Association
and Museum (460 Commercial St.,
508-487-1750), which celebrates members of
the oldest art colony in the nation, and
which recently completed an
expansion—providing more space to display
works by renowned talents like Robert
Motherwell, Charles Heinz, Dorothy Gees
Seckler and many more.
Not to be overlooked is P-Town’s
tight-knit Portuguese community, who
traditionally made up much of the fisherman
corps. From June 22–24, P-Town’s
annual Portuguese Festival
will be in full swing—boasting live music
and dance performances, storytelling and, of
course, plenty of authentic ethnic food. The
highlight of the festival for gourmets is
the annual kale soup contest, which
virtually every restaurant in town enters,
looking to receive the coveted first place
award.
If you’re still in P-Town come
dinnertime, you’ll find any number of lovely
and delicious restaurants to satisfy your
stomach’s rumblings. In addition to great
seafood options like the
Bistro at Crowne Pointe (82 Bradford
St., 508-487-6767) with its sumptuous
lobster ravioli and seafood bouillabaisse,
you’ll find plenty of spots specializing in
Mediterranean-influenced cuisine, thanks to
P-Town’s plentiful Portuguese and Italian
population. Try Front Street
(230 Commercial St., 508-487-9715) or the
venerable Ciro & Sal’s
(4 Kiley Court, 508-487-6444) for an
abbondanza of delicious pastas, risottos and
antipasti.
And it’s entirely possible you might
decide to make your daytrip an overnight
trip, and if that’s the case, you certainly
don’t want to spend the night sitting in
your room—not when P-Town has a plethora of
nightclubs and cabarets boasting what
Schneider calls “some of the most exciting,
eclectic and colorful entertainment in the
Commonwealth.” Try Club Euro
(303 Commercial St., 508-487-2505) for a
danceclub vibe, or check out the live drag
and comedy shows at Post
Office Café and Cabaret (300
Commercial St., 508-487-3892).
Sound like a lot to fit into one visit?
No need to worry—by the time you hop that
ferry home, you’ll doubtless be dreaming of
a return visit to sample the unique charms
of P-Town again.

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