NEIGHBORHOODS > CHARLESTOWN


Discover the Colonial charm of historic Charlestown
by Christine Celli

Back in the day-okay way back in the day-Charlestown was the place to be in these parts. Thanks to its waterfront locale, early settlers felt the area had an edge over what is now Boston. So in 1628, when it came time to choose a first home in the New World, Colonists chose Charlestown.

Unfortunately in the years that followed, those bragging rights have at times been forgotten. In 1874, Charlestown was annexed by Boston, allegedly because Protestants in the area were uncomfortable with the rapid influx of Irish Catholics. This change did nothing to enhance Charlestown's reputation, further spurred, perhaps, by the sooty, elevated train that blocked the sun in the early 1900s and the post-Vietnam demise of a grand Navy Yard that in its heyday built more than 200 warships.

These days, however, it's all history-in that quaint, classic New England sense of the word. The Bunker Hill Monument proudly commemorates the area's ties to the Revolutionary War, the El train was long ago replaced by the underground Orange Line, the Charlestown Navy Yard has been converted to a public park that once again attracts countless visitors, and, just like in the early days, everyone seems to want to move to the neighborhood (the soaring home prices will attest to that!). If you haven't yet crossed over the Charles River Dam to see what all the fuss is about, start following the Freedom Trail (it heads right there), then follow our advice.

MONUMENTS AND MOORINGS
Situated slightly north of Boston proper, Charlestown is very much a part of the city and is just a short walk from the North End or from the Community College stop on the Orange Line. The first thing you see when you get there-the towering monument to the Battle of Bunker Hill-is also the best place to start your visit.

The Bunker Hill Monument (Breed's Hill, 617-242-5641) is a 221-foot granite obelisk that was completed in 1842 to memorialize the lives lost during this key Revolutionary War battle. You can survey the surrounding land by climbing the 294 steps to the top (it's free!), then learn why the monument was built in the first place by taking in the historical exhibits at The Whites of Their Eyes presentation at Bunker Hill Pavilion. There, you'll learn that although the Patriots actually lost the Battle of Bunker Hill to the British, it served as a great moral victory because the Revolutionaries were ill-equipped to fight against the well-armed Redcoats (who lost more soldiers in the battle). The multi-media presentation chronicles the famous order from Patriot Colonel Prescott, who exclaimed, "Don't fire until you see the whites of their eyes," as the colonists sought to conserve scarce ammunition. You'll also learn how the battle was actually fought on Breed's Hill (not nearby Bunker Hill). The 20-minute show features projected images and special effects. The exhibit it located down the hill from the monument and all Old Town Trolley ticket holders receive free admission (refer to listing here).

The Charlestown Navy Yard, home to both the U.S.S. Constitution (a.k.a. "Old Ironsides") and the U.S.S. Cassin Young, is also a great place to learn about the community's storied naval history. The two ships are perfect examples of the Yard's longtime tradition of shipbuilding. The Cassin Young is a World War II destroyer that was built in 1943, while "Old Ironsides," launched in 1797, is the oldest commissioned warship afloat in the world. They are docked side-by-side in the Navy Yard and are open for tours (refer to listing here).

The U.S.S. Constitution boasts a whole museum dedicated to its history that is also worth a visit. There you'll learn how "Old Ironsides" got her name and what it was like to serve on the ship, through interactive exhibits and stories of former sailors who fought aboard it during the War of 1812. The museum is located across from the ship itself in the Navy Yard (refer to listing here).

EVER-CHANGING CHARLESTOWN
Charlestown has been subjected to countless facelifts over the years. First the Revolutionary War left the region severely damaged by fire. The once-thriving Colonial town was eventually rebuilt and enjoyed a prosperous time as the center of transportation and maritime industry in the 19th century. Unfortunately, in the second half of the 20th century, the sagging shipbuilding industry was in turmoil. By the 1970s, the Navy ended it altogether, officially closing Charlestown Navy Yard.

A push to desegregate schools in Boston led to heated and often violent race riots-especially in heavily Irish communities like Charlestown and South Boston. But in the 1980s, Charlestown's close proximity to the fast-developing Financial District served to boost its real estate market and once again revitalized the community's economy.

If you walk along Warren Avenue today and down some of its side streets you'll see the newly renovated homes of Charlestown's original settlers-now occupied by the current community of upperclass 30-somethings who have made the area their own. The earliest homes are wood and built in the Federalist style made popular by famed architect Charles Bulfinch. But you can also spot houses built slightly later like the brick, Greek Revival row houses from the early 19th century and the more ornate but also rare Queen Anne-style homes that look almost like medieval castles.

For the most stunning example of new development, visit City Square Park (on the corner of Rutherford Avenue and City Square). The park was fashioned on 40 acres of new green space created thanks to the Big Dig and debuted in the late '90s. The centrally located park is a good place for a break and for views of the crown jewel of the Big Dig, the Leonard P. Zakim Bunker Hill Bridge.

NOSHING AND NIGHTLIFE
If there was one pub in town where everyone knew Paul Revere's name, it was the Warren Tavern (2 Pleasant St., 617-241-8142). Revere was a regular there in its early days, when even George Washington was once a patron. These days the tavern, named after a fallen hero of Bunker Hill, Joseph Warren, is more likely packed with locals in New England Patriots t-shirts than actual Revolutionaries. But they serve up a terrific hamburger and other refreshments, and the space looks much as it did when it first opened in 1780.

In Boston, celebrities generally only come in three flavors: politicians, sports heroes and chefs. Julia Child represents the most glittering example of the latter, but Charlestown holds claim to another biggie, Todd English. These days English can be seen everywhere from PBS to "The Iron Chef," and his national notoriety all began with the opening of Olives (10 City Square, 617-242-1999) in 1989. The restaurant boasts ample plates of creatively concocted Mediterranean cuisine. And from all accounts, the food is well worth the long waits and steep prices (they don't take reservations). If you'd prefer a less expensive (but no less popular) way to check out English's cooking, try Figs (67 Main St., 617-242-2229) for inspired, brick oven pizzas the whole family will love.