The Official Guide to BOSTON | RESTAURANTS July 26 - August 08, 2010
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RESTAURANTS > RESTAURANT PROFILES > Caliterra

Caliterra
89 Broad St. 348-1234
Suzanne Scribner

Once upon a time, 89 Broad Street was famed for being the tallest standing skyscraper in Boston. Today, humbled by buildings two and three times its height, this historically renovated site is creating a new niche for itself in Boston’s Financial District as a first class hotel boasting a casual yet upscale restaurant which they’ve dubbed Caliterra.

Recently renovated to create an atmosphere reminiscent of Northern California mixed with a taste of Tuscany, Italy, Caliterra still holds onto its history as a 1920s Art Deco building. Original terrazzo floors lay the groundwork for the entire restoration, while newly painted murals of fishermen, farmers and vintners depict harvest time in the early 1900s. Exposed wooden beams, vaulted ceilings and black chandeliers add to the rustic yet elegant decor.

On this particular evening, my visit to Caliterra was prompted by an invitation to a Chef’s Table, the purpose of which was to introduce the new executive chef, Damiano de Nicolo. Having dined at the restaurant once before, I was looking forward to another evening of exquisite cuisine and I was not disappointed.

Passing through the bar and main dining room bustling with the after-work crowd, I was led to the private dining room in the back along with the 14 others that were joining me. An extensive wine rack against the back wall was filled with a variety of American and Italian vintages. Presented with a glass of merlot and seated at the head of the table, I was ready for dinner to begin.

Being a Chef’s Table, bits of everything from the Autumn Menu were placed before us for random indulgence. I started with the Sonoma duck foie gras, which under normal circumstances probably wouldn’t be at the top of my list; Damiano’s preparation, however, left my taste buds craving for more. Next to the foie gras sat samples of the shrimp cigars, which were just as pleasing as their counterpart.

For the entree we were offered a choice of roasted free range chicken saltimboca with prosciutto, sage and mascarpone polenta; bone-in aged angus rib eye steak with onion marmalade and parmesan, lemon, pepper fries; or porcini crusted halibut with vegetable Giardinera and thyme-infused zucchini broth. I chose the chicken which was very tender and met with my approval. By the looks on the other diners’ faces Damiano had just affirmed his expertise in both Californian and Italian cuisine to his entire dinner party regardless of whether he was serving a seafood, chicken or steak dish.

The menu also offers a variety of other dishes, including pan seared Atlantic salmon with Riviera vegetables, pearl pasta and barolo wine glaze; pan seared Sonoma lamb rib chops; and seared Sonoma duck breast. Damiano emphasizes that the freshest local seafood and produce are used, along with Californian and Italian ingredients, for all dishes.

To top off this evening of fine dining we enjoyed an interactive dessert. Volunteers from the party helped Damiano as he concocted the final treat before our very eyes. Comprised of fresh strawberries, blackberries and raspberries and coated in a silky sauce made of milk, eggs and sugar, the strawberries zabglione would please the palate of the most discriminating of mouths.

A new restaurant with a flair for history, Caliterra is sure to become an old favorite in the Financial District neighborhood.
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