RESTAURANTS > RESTAURANT PROFILES > Club Café

Club Café
209 Columbus Ave. (617) 536-0966
Christopher Wallenberg

Located at the hub of Boston’s chic restaurant scene, in the heart of the South End on Columbus Ave., is one of the city’s hippest spots for affordable fine dining. Part nightclub, part restaurant, Club Cafe stirs up an unpretentious mixture of dining, socializing and people-watching in a relaxing and inviting atmosphere that appeals to patrons from all walks of life. The laid-back nightclub in the back of the restaurant is a staple of the city’s gay club scene, while the restaurant, led by longtime chef Julia Brant, caters to a diverse clientele of South End artists, chic young professionals and neighborhood regulars.

The decor is minimal yet refined, punctuated by an elegant baby grand piano which holds center court near the bar/lounge part of the restaurant. After being escorted to a window-side table graced with white linen tablecloths, we perused the extensive wine list, but eventually settled on a couple of cool, dark Bass Ales to wash away the day’s stresses. Our attentive, amiable waiter promptly read off the specials of the day and filled our crystal water glasses to the brim.

Following a short decision-making process, we decided upon two appetizers. My dining companion’s mixed green salad featured a melange of leafy mesclun, chicory, radicchio and red leaf lettuce, and was accompanied by a light champagne vinaigrette. My lobster and seafood martini consisted of tender, succulent fresh lobster meat, shrimp and sea scallops accompanied by bits of honeydew melon and cantaloupe and coated with a passion fruit truffle oil vinaigrette. As the name suggests, the dish was whimsically served in a sleek martini glass. Diners may also choose from dishes like grilled beef tips with Dijon aioli, capers and arugula or smoked salmon with warm red bliss potato salad and dill-lime creme fraiche.

After devouring our starters, we were more than ready for the main course. Choosing from such mouth-watering dishes as grilled mahi mahi, Key West clam and seafood stew, braised “day boat” cod and a springtime lamb ragout, the task ahead of us was a daunting one. However, we met the challenge wholeheartedly. My companion selected the special of the day—sauteed shrimp served over spiraling tagliatelle pasta and lightly varnished with a piquant lemon caper sauce. I dove into my Thai duck breast with reckless abandon. The duck breast was flavored with curry spices and chef Brant’s own red wine-based duck stock, garnished with snow peas and sweet, thinly-sliced pineapple wedges, then served over a tangle of somen noodles.

With our bellies nearing their carrying capacity, we reluctantly took up the dessert menu. However, upon inspection there was no question we had to make room for one or two of Club Cafe’s sweet confections. My dining companion tried creme brulee for the first time (no, she hasn’t been living under a rock all her life), while my eyes bulged at the sight of the chocolate siren cake, three moist and dense layers of chocolate cake lacquered with a lip-smacking chocolate ganache. Irresistible, yes—just like the addictive beat of this melting pot of cuisine and culture.