RESTAURANTS > RESTAURANT PROFILES > Commonwealth Fish & Beer Co.

Commonwealth Fish & Beer Co.
138 Portland St. 523-8383
Scott Roberto

The concept behind the new Commonwealth Fish & Beer Co., formerly the Commonwealth Brewing Co., is simple: combine the best beer in town with the freshest seafood, and they will come. The Brewing Co. already had the beer part down pat. Now, with the Fish & Beer Co., the restaurant has moved beyond the pub fare it had previously been serving, offering a more seafood-oriented menu that gives patrons even more reason to drop their anchors at this fine establishment.

With a completely revamped menu, the Fish & Beer Co. is determined to provide quality fish dishes along with its already award-winning beer. Judging by my recent visit, I would say it has succeeded admirably. Along with a newer, brighter, aqua-highlighted interior decorated with dangling fish and giant lures, the restaurant features many tried-and-true seafood favorites as well as a selection of land-based offerings such as ribs and tips.

But let us not forget the beer. Sampling several brews throughout the evening, my companion and I started with the seasonal beer, the Captain Harry, a cask-conditioned ale served in the traditional English style, cellar temperature and naturally carbonated. Rich and hearty, it was nevertheless surprisingly smooth. Later we sampled the special old ale, a unique, sweet and aromatic “after dinner beer” served in a wine glass due to its high alcohol content. Revisiting an old favorite, I also hoisted a pint of their famous porter, a dark, full-bodied ale.

These beers perfectly complemented our meal—or was that the other way around? Regardless, wanting to see if the Fish & Beer Co. lived up to the former part of its new name, we began with the Maryland crab cakes and the crispy seafood platter. The crab cakes, served with roasted red pepper aioli, were a flavorful delight and the seafood platter, served with savory honey mustard and mouth-watering marinara sauces, was a tasty trio of popcorn shrimp, fried calamari and batter-fried oysters.

Moving on to the focal point of the evening, I chose the grilled halibut, listed under the menu heading “Simply Grilled Fish” along with tuna, swordfish and salmon. Tender and flaky and cooked with lemon caper butter, it nearly melted in my mouth. My friend assured me that his choice, the garlic and herb shrimp and scallops, was equally delicious.

Fish and beer are not the only house specialties, however. My dessert, the pecan-topped bread pudding, was a perfect bit of nutty sweetness. Chosen from a menu presented on a 3-D Viewmaster, it was as much fun to order as it was to eat.

For those looking for a little nightlife after dinner, the restaurant also features The Tap Room downstairs, a hidden gem in Boston’s live music landscape, which hosts bands Thursday through Saturday nights. Boasting a full bar serving all their hand-crafted beers and a comfortable setting complete with pool tables and couches, this nightspot gives even more incentive to visit the newest addition to Boston’s seafood scene.