The Official Guide to BOSTON | RESTAURANTS July 26 - August 08, 2010
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RESTAURANTS > RESTAURANT PROFILES > Gandhi

Gandhi
704 Mass. Ave. Central Sq,. Cambridge (617) 491-1104


If you’re craving a taste of what stews within the “great American melting pot,” Central Square in Cambridge serves a generous portion. It is here, midway between M.I.T. and Harvard, that the streets teem with people of all nations, and the aromatic seeds of the cardamom plant mingle with leaves to create a veil that envelops your olfactory nerves.

With an abundance of ethnic eateries lining Massachusetts Ave. and surrounding streets, how do you judge what is authentic and what is merely aspiration? Take our word for it—for the simply prepared and extraordinary taste of authentic Indian cuisine, we suggest making Gandhi Restaurant your first stop. Owner Mohan Singh Saini has owned and operated Indian restaurants in the area for more than 15 years, and credits himself with introducing and educating Boston on the joys of Indian cuisine. Despite that outside of India we refer to all Indian dishes as “curries,” it is impossible to bottle this flavor. The creation of Indian dishes is an inexact science. While the spices used (cumin, fenugreek, black pepper, cardamom and paprika, among others) are generally the same throughout the menu, the flavor of each dish is decidedly unique, depending on the method of preparation and the generosity of the chef.

As my dinner partner and I looked over the menu, we dabbled in conversational Indian (there are several phrases printed for your amusement on the placemat), and crunched on the complimentary pappadum—light, crispy black bean wafers served with relish. While Gandhi’s menu focuses on the cuisine of Northern India, some of our favorite dishes were found within the small collection of South Indian offerings. Thinking myself somewhat of an ‘expert’ on Indian food (from the standpoint of a voracious consumer), I was humbled to find several items on the menu I had yet to encounter. In an attempt to rescue my reputation, we ordered them. The masala dosai was the favorite at our table. Traditionally a breakfast food, dosas work well as an appetizer or a light meal. This thin griddle bread, made from a batter of ground rice and black lentils without the addition of sugar or eggs, is cooked to a pliable crisp and rolled around a mixture of vegetables. Several relishes, like the delicious coconut and mango chutneys, are served alongside for dipping, but we enjoyed it unadorned. The dahi vada, black bean patties swimming in a tangy housemade yogurt, came in a close second.

Dishes may be ordered à la carte or within a reasonably-priced dinner, accompanied by soup, dessert and a choice of hot beverage (all meals are served with basmati rice and onion salad). The vegetable thali is always a personal favorite. Gandhi’s version offers a choice of the house soups, including the creamy, lightly-spiced lentil soup; three vegetable “curries” served with rice, all drastically varying in flavor and spice; and dessert with coffee or tea.

Out of the abundance of chicken and lamb dishes, my partner chose the chicken mushroom. Served with saffron rice, this generous portion of meat and fungi is cooked in a spicy brown sauce with mushrooms and complemented nicely by garlic naan and a light but satisfying Taj Mahal (imported Indian beer).

Dessert was a deliciously sweet masala tea, made to order and well worth the wait.

Gandhi Restaurant is located one block from the Central Square “T” stop on the Red Line.
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